As I stood on the splin­tered boat dock with John Ander­son south across Mis­sis­sip­pi Sound to Horn Island, his lion’s mane of hair blew straight back, as if we were already bump­ing across the , under­way for the island. But the Gulf of Mex­i­co was espe­cial­ly chop­py, and the boat I hired was heed­ing small-craft warn­ings. Horn lay eight miles off­shore, a hyphen on the horizon’s hazy line. Still, felt with­in our grasp. “The fact that I can’t always makes me val­ue the island more,” he . John became an expert on the island by way of his father, the Wal­ter Ander­son, more trips to Horn than prob­a­bly any­one else. He called spring “bat­tle of the equinox,” when Bore­as, Greek god of the north wind, and Notus, of the south, fought for suprema­cy and kept the in con­stant tur­moil. I’d seen the bat­tle many times over the years while I was research­ing a book about the Gulf. I’ve been fas­ci­nat­ed with Horn since I first vis­it­ed the Wal­ter Ander­son Muse­um of Art in Ocean Springs, Miss., years ago. From the end of World War II until his death in 1965, Ander­son […]

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